Today I am going to show you how to fix a leaking dishwasher door. If your dishwasher is leaking from the corners here underneath the door, chances are it’s the gasket that is the problem, it’s the seal that goes around the door. If your dishwasher has a leak coming from underneath the dishwasher, creeping out of the kitchen floor, you need to remove this panel and you probably have a failed hose or a failed pump. That would be a different How To article. In the meantime, if you do find yourself with a failed pump and you’re not sure what to do, you can always call in a professional like the guys at Appliance Masters (http://lasvegasappliancemasters.com/)to help you..
In this one, what you do is you open your dishwasher and you can see this black trim going all the way around. Sometimes that can get damaged or just smashed, so that’s what needs to be replaced. Before we do that, make sure that these screws around the door are tightened. If they are sticking up and you are trying to close the door, it’s going to push the door away from the main body of the dishwasher and it’s going to create a gap in which the water can come out.
So if those screws are loose, tighten them and that might be what fixes your problem. In my case, you can see this gasket is smashed and damaged, it has a hole in it. It’s really easy to take out, you just yank it and that’s it. To order a new one, you are going to need to know your model type and if you open the door and look right here on the sticker, you can see this model number there. You don’t need the serial number, just the model number. So go online, type in your dishwasher model number and you can type in door gasket.
I’ve got mine from Amazon at about thirty-five dollars and in this parts bag they include this latch that’s for the top of the door, underneath the cabinet. This is just to replace it, if you have an old plastic one, because those fail. So if you have a metal one and it’s all working fine, you just throw the new latch that they give you away and don’t worry about it. Here you can see the old gasket and the new one, they’re not an exact match at all, it works anyway, but… The old one is actually thicker and probably constructed a bit better than the new ones.
It has a very thin wall that can probably easily get ripped, but… And if you notice, the barbs are also different, they don’t look the same. And before I do the real install, here is how it inserts, you can see it just fits in this little groove. So tuck it in tight on the bottom corner and just work your way up. You’ll probably have to go back and forth a few times, making sure it’s in. It’s not hard at all to fit this in, except the corners. They take a little bit of work. You need to pull it as you push it in.
That gets rid of the extra slack and it makes a nice corner. So just keep working it all the way across the top, pushing in every spot. I am not pulling tight, except for the corners, I pull it a little bit. Here on this corner, you can see that is not how you want it to look, that is not going to do a good job sealing. On this side, you can see it went in just right. So pull it out and when you smashing it in, pull on it a little bit and that will stretch it, so that the corner is nice and straight and not wobbly.
And just feed it all the way down into the bottom and you can get a pair of scissors and cut off the rest. Smash it down in the corner and that’s about it. I hope that’s been helpful to you, if so, please click Like, and feel free to share this with anyone you know who may be able to benefit from it.
A clogged garbage disposal is a real pain to have to deal with. Possibly the only thing worse is when you decide to fix it yourself, get part way through the project, remove the clog, and then realize that you’re not sure how to put it all back together again and you end up needing to call in the professionals, like these guys at Appliance Masters – http://austinappliancemasters.com. Trust me, if it happened to you, you’re not the first! So today I’m looking at the latter part of putting the disposal and sink drain back together. Maybe it can help you out of your current situation…
I’m going to take the screw and part here off and then I’ve got my washer inside again, the washer, the flat side of the washer right here goes on last so I’m going to put the skinny part there, now the key to this putting everything back together, this is the last piece we took off so we’re going to put this on first, I want for you is to take a close up look at the washer here, there’s a flat side and then there’s a….I guess a tapered side, you want to put the flat side up first, so how this goes back on, just to refresh your memory, put the washer back on first then put the…I’m sorry, so how this works is you put the screw top on first, you put the flat edge going up with the tapered in down, okay? So that’s up there, up and out of the way, push this washer back.
Theirs is the connecter there as well and then fit the two pieces back together and then screw everything on like so and that way you have a good hand tied connection, again I only do it hand tied, now move back to soft….just a little bit because once I put this connector back on at the top, the screw top, it’s going to interfere with the little tabs and it’s the same thing on yours as well so I don’t want to interfere just right now, so I’m going to take this, now tighten up okay? Now we’re going to do the same thing here, this is the p-trap and again I’m going to put the screw top on first and then the flat side of the washer goes up. I’m going to ahead and….now obviously it makes sense if it’s already fitted, which side goes in, so I’m going to go ahead and put this in first, make this connection here.
I’m going to screw this on, the bottom piece on first, the reason is because of the….I don’t know how to make this so this is going to obviously make the, be the determining factor here, now when you’re screwing these on make sure that you have each part of it square because you don’t want to start across threading and that’s so easy to do with this plastic going in so I’m going to go ahead and square it up, make sure that its own there correctly while I’m adjusting it, okay? Take that and now my final piece here and again, the tabs sometimes according to how close, this is pretty close, the tabs will interfere to some degree but there is enough flexibility in the PVC, in the plastic here for it to connect, okay everything is hand tied, there and there now the secret to all this, all this work here is to make sure that there are no leaks so how I’m going to do this is to put a couple of pieces of paper towel underneath here to check it.
Turn the water on, flush it out, make sure everything drains really good in the upper parts, both the left and right part of your double sink and you’re reading to go, okay we’re ready to go ahead and test so just turn the water on here, make sure it doesn’t have any drips and I’m looking at the paper right here to see if I have any drips there and on that side, let’s test it on this side and there are no drips there, so now we’re completely ready and finished with this and that’s how you test to see if you have a leak underneath your sink.
I am going to show you the steps on how to install one of these new kitchen faucets. These are becoming more popular. It’s a single handle faucet and instead of having a separate sprayer, the whole body pulls out and you are able to use it like a sprayer. So I’ll show you the steps on how to install this. The faucet comes with this threaded collar, locked on to this threaded rod.
You have to remove this first and we are going to put this base of the faucet, we are going to slip in on and leave it in between this hose and this going to sit on top of the sink. I turned the sink backwards so it’s easy for you to see how I connect it. But one problem with few of these faucets is the handle only turns back and forth to a certain degree.
So you need to try to line this faucet in the center, so that when you put it in the sink it’s going to be centered for us. So it’s important to look at that first. So now we are going to slip it into the body of the sink and we are just going to feed it through the one hole. And this is different than some faucets that are going to have two threaded rods, one for the hot, one for the cold.
Both of the hot and cold are in the center and we are just going to drop it in, making sure that we’ve lined up the center, where this is going to turn on and off. And I might even adjust it just a little bit, so that that’s centered. And in this case it looks like these holes in the back are pretty much centered, so we want to keep those straight back.
I am going to throw the rubber washer and the metal washer, we are going to pass the hose through it and also the tubes that are going to connect to the hot and cold and we’ve got to kind of weave this around all three, so that it passes through that inside diameter and it’s not easy. There we go. And now we are going to make sure that we’ve got the front lined up.
Then we are going to take our threaded nut and we are going to push it up the same way and then tighten it down on that threaded post. All right. So I am tightening up the nut, making sure the handle is centered and once we get this to the top, we are going to snug it off fairly tight and then we are going to use these two screws and we are going to completely tighten it down and force it into place.
The flexible tube that goes to the handle, I put a little bit of plumber’s grease all around this O-ring and it’s going to keep it from drying up as quickly and it’s going to allow me to pop this in place without scratching it or causing a little scratch that would possibly leak. So once we have that greased up, we are going to snap this into place and then it has a little set screw that we are going to tighten down and then we are going on to the next step where we are going to attach our supply line.
Now we are going to connect the supply line to the faucet and almost all kitchen sinks are going to have half inch iron pipe coming out of the body of the faucet itself. In this case we’ve got one group coming out of the middle of the faucet. A lot of faucets are actually going to have threaded pipes coming from the left and right side of the faucet body, but in this case we have supply tubes that are copper, so we have to be very careful as we tighten this.
In the supply line itself, in most cases you are going to have half inch iron pipe that’s connected to your faucet. And then connected to the valve, the most common size is three eights compression. You could possibly have a half inch compression, or half inch iron pipe, but in most cases is going to be half inch iron pipe to the faucet, three eights compression to the valve.
A great trick is to take your old supply lines, if you are changing your faucet, bring the supply line with you to the hardware store and that way you are guaranteed that the new supply lines are going to be the right size. So we are going to take this supply line, we are going to connect it to the supply tube and we are going to be very careful that we hold this fitting here with a wrench as we tighten this nut because of the soft copper.
And those are the steps to put together a kitchen faucet with a single handle and the sprayer hooked to the body. The only thing I have to add to a faucet like this is this little weight they give you and you just connect it to the bottom of the loop and when you use your sprayer and push it back into the body of the faucet, it just helps push the hose back down. So that’s all there is to it.
Before you connect the new supply line to either your faucet or dishwasher, you’d want to bleed it first. So I connected the supply line to the valve and I am just going to let it run for a couple of seconds. And if you had any debris build up, just from working and get caught in here, you don’t want it to get caught in the aerator, in the faucet or especially for the dishwasher, all the small pieces inside the dishwasher.
So it’s always a good idea to grab a bucket, bleed it first, and especially if have galvanized pipe and you shut off the water and you’ve turned the main back on, just that activity sometimes shakes loose a lot of rust, so it’s always a good idea to bleed your valve before you connect a new supply line.
To finish off the faucet, I connected the supply lines and I opened the valves with a bucket and bled them to get any debris out and then it’s always a good idea to take off the aerator, which I did and bleed it.