A clogged garbage disposal is a real pain to have to deal with. Possibly the only thing worse is when you decide to fix it yourself, get part way through the project, remove the clog, and then realize that you’re not sure how to put it all back together again and you end up needing to call in the professionals, like these guys at Appliance Masters – http://austinappliancemasters.com. Trust me, if it happened to you, you’re not the first! So today I’m looking at the latter part of putting the disposal and sink drain back together. Maybe it can help you out of your current situation…
I’m going to take the screw and part here off and then I’ve got my washer inside again, the washer, the flat side of the washer right here goes on last so I’m going to put the skinny part there, now the key to this putting everything back together, this is the last piece we took off so we’re going to put this on first, I want for you is to take a close up look at the washer here, there’s a flat side and then there’s a….I guess a tapered side, you want to put the flat side up first, so how this goes back on, just to refresh your memory, put the washer back on first then put the…I’m sorry, so how this works is you put the screw top on first, you put the flat edge going up with the tapered in down, okay? So that’s up there, up and out of the way, push this washer back.
Theirs is the connecter there as well and then fit the two pieces back together and then screw everything on like so and that way you have a good hand tied connection, again I only do it hand tied, now move back to soft….just a little bit because once I put this connector back on at the top, the screw top, it’s going to interfere with the little tabs and it’s the same thing on yours as well so I don’t want to interfere just right now, so I’m going to take this, now tighten up okay? Now we’re going to do the same thing here, this is the p-trap and again I’m going to put the screw top on first and then the flat side of the washer goes up. I’m going to ahead and….now obviously it makes sense if it’s already fitted, which side goes in, so I’m going to go ahead and put this in first, make this connection here.
I’m going to screw this on, the bottom piece on first, the reason is because of the….I don’t know how to make this so this is going to obviously make the, be the determining factor here, now when you’re screwing these on make sure that you have each part of it square because you don’t want to start across threading and that’s so easy to do with this plastic going in so I’m going to go ahead and square it up, make sure that its own there correctly while I’m adjusting it, okay? Take that and now my final piece here and again, the tabs sometimes according to how close, this is pretty close, the tabs will interfere to some degree but there is enough flexibility in the PVC, in the plastic here for it to connect, okay everything is hand tied, there and there now the secret to all this, all this work here is to make sure that there are no leaks so how I’m going to do this is to put a couple of pieces of paper towel underneath here to check it.
Turn the water on, flush it out, make sure everything drains really good in the upper parts, both the left and right part of your double sink and you’re reading to go, okay we’re ready to go ahead and test so just turn the water on here, make sure it doesn’t have any drips and I’m looking at the paper right here to see if I have any drips there and on that side, let’s test it on this side and there are no drips there, so now we’re completely ready and finished with this and that’s how you test to see if you have a leak underneath your sink.
It’s very easy to change a thermocouple on a hot water tank. What we are going to do is we are going to loosen the nuts to the thermocouple, we’re going to loosen the nut to the burner too and also to the pilot tube. We are going to use an adjustable wrench with smooth teeth, that way we don’t do damage to the soft material. Once we loosen all three, we are going to pull out the whole burner assembly, once we pull out the burner assembly it’s easy to knock off all the rust and the deposits that built up.
What this will allow to happen is this will allow us to get a better flame also. Once we get the burner assembly out, we can then remove the thermocouple by just applying some pressure, there’s a fitting that holds it inside the bracket here. Putting in a new theremocouple it’s very easy, all we do is take a new thermocouple, we push it back into the bracket and there is usually some type of compression fitting that holds it. If it doesn’t have a compression fitting, some have a nut that pulls up and you put it in place like that.
But most will have a very simple compression type fitting, so it’s very easy to put a new thermocouple in place. Most thermocouples can be any length that really doesn’t matter if you excess, you can just curl it up and leave it in place like this. Putting in the burner assembly, what we are going to do is put it back in, we are going to take all the tubes and we are going to put them back into the gas control, like so and then we are going to take the nuts and screw them back in place.
Again, we are going to want to hand tighten them, because it’s very soft material. One we tighten them up, we are going to put another quarter turn or so on with our wrench and once they are tight, we are going to turn on the main gas valve to the gas control. One we have the main gas filled on, we are going to turn the knob to pilot, we’re going to press down pilot and hold the flame to the end of the burner tube and at the end of the pilot tube. Once to pilot lights, we are going to continue to hold down this pilot for about thirty seconds, to warm up the thermocouple.
Once the thermocouple is warmed up, it’s going to send a signal to gas control that it’s on, once the gas control is released, the knob is released, we turn it to “on” and it’s going to allow a flow of gas to the burner. Once the burner is sucking gas, what we want to do is we want to test these three areas on the gas control that we screwed down our nuts and we are going to put a solution of water with a little bit of soup in it and if there is any type of gas leak, it’s going to blow bubbles. And that’s pretty straightforward and that’s how we change a thermocouple.
I’ve got a toilet with an old-fashion ball-cock that’s been running and what we are going to do is replace it with a newer style fill valve and we’ll go through the steps one by one. The first step is to shut the valve off that fills the tank. I had to put a wrench on it to break it free and you can hear the water stop. So we turned it clock-wise until the water stops. And the next step is going to be flushing the tank and letting out all the water.
I flushed the tank and I left the handle up, so we can get as much water out as we could, but you can see, there’s a little bit of water standing there, so we are going to have to put a bucket underneath the tank and as we take off the supply line to the tank it’s going to leak a little bit, so you want a bucket underneath there. Next we are going to use an adjustable wrench and we are going to loosen the nut right at the bottom of the supply line.
One we loosen the nut at the bottom of the supply line, we are going to use an adjustable pliers and we are going to loosen the nut right here at the bottom of the tank. And once we have those two nuts loose, we are just going to remove the supply line. Now that we’ve taken off the supply line, I am going to loosen this nut at the bottom of the old ball-cock and once I remove that, it’s going to be very easy just to pull the old ball-cock straight out of the tank.
So I’ve loosen the nut at the bottom of the supply line, the top of the supply line and remove the nut at the bottom of the ball-cock. Now I am just going to pull this straight up and we are going to be able to remove the whole assembly. See why we needed that pan underneath the tank? Now we are going to start putting together the new fill valve. This is the old ball-cock we pulled out of there and we’ll put together the new one.
This is a pretty typical set up of the new fill valves and what’s nice is rather than the float extending out here, the float is connected to the shaft, which really makes it mechanically much easier for this to shut off the valve when the water fills up in the tank. So you are going to take the washer off the bottom of this little group and you are going to push out this centerpiece, then you are going to take this washer and with the bevel down, you are going to put it on the bottom of the fill tube and this is what is going to keep it from leaking inside the tank.
The fill valve is held in place with just one nut underneath the tank, so we are going to put the valve in the tank and we are going to tighten it up. What’s nice about this fill valve is that we can adjust it from nine inches to fourteen inches by loosing this collar, we can adjust it for very high tank or drop it down for a lower tank. So for this toilet, we are going to leave it at right about ten inches and lock it in place and then we are going to put it into the tank.
So it’s really easy to put the new fill valve in place, we are just going to take it, it’s going to drop down into the hole, we’re going to point out the float towards the center on the tank and then we are going to go underneath and we are just going to attach it with this nut. From underneath the tank, I attained it by hand and now we are just going to put another three quarters of a turn on the nut, we are not going to over-tighten it too much, it’s all plastic.
Once we fill the tank, if it needs to be tighten a little but more, we can tighten it then. One we have the fill valve in place, we are going to connect the refill tube to the side of it and we are going to connect it to a fitting that keeps it just above the overflow pipe here. If we were to take the tube and just shove it down into this pipe, what it could do is siphon out water and then it will keep the fill valve constantly trying to fill the tank.
So very simple here and now we are going to connect the supply line. Now we are going to connect the supply line to the shut off valve. Most shut off valves that you are going to see underneath your kitchen sinks or in the bathroom were connected to a toilet have a compression thread. So we are going to need a unique thread count on the bottom of the supply line and then we are going to have seven eights on top.
This is the old supply line that was connected to the tank and I am going to change it with a newer flexible supply line. I didn’t know the length of this, so I grabbed a couple different ones. And you can see that’s going to be very difficult to line this up with this height. So luckily, this longer one, what I am going to do is just put a nice soft bend to it and we are going to be able to line it up like this.
So if you are going to make a mistake, always get a supply line that’s longer, that was you can put a nice soft loop into it and you’ll be able to connect pretty much any size or any distance between the valve and the bottom of the tank. I just want to cover this supply line really quick. It’s very unique. If you don’t know the shut off valve that you have, whether is three compression or half inch compression, this has two fittings inside here that you screw on to the bottom.
So you can actually screw it on to an old-fashioned valve that’s half inch iron pipe and has two different compression fittings in here, one for three eights compression, which is probably the most common and also half inch compression. So if you are in a hardware store and you don’t know what size you need, this is a great one to grab, it’s a fit all. Okay. I connected the supply line to the shut off valve on the bottom with an adjustable wrench and I connected the top of the supply line to the fill valve with an adjustable pliers. Now we’ll turn it on and see what happens.
The fill valve did its job and fill the tank and we are going to want it to shut off just below the level of the overflow pipe and to make any adjustments, there’s a rod here that you can turn to adjust the float up or down and then the next thing we are going to want to do is check, just to make sure we have no leaks under the tank, we are going to check the valve and we are also going to check the connection, the fill valve to the tank and then the supply line to fill valve.Once all those are adjusted, you are done. So pretty straightforward if you need to replace a valve on a toilet.
I am going to show you the steps on how to install one of these new kitchen faucets. These are becoming more popular. It’s a single handle faucet and instead of having a separate sprayer, the whole body pulls out and you are able to use it like a sprayer. So I’ll show you the steps on how to install this. The faucet comes with this threaded collar, locked on to this threaded rod.
You have to remove this first and we are going to put this base of the faucet, we are going to slip in on and leave it in between this hose and this going to sit on top of the sink. I turned the sink backwards so it’s easy for you to see how I connect it. But one problem with few of these faucets is the handle only turns back and forth to a certain degree.
So you need to try to line this faucet in the center, so that when you put it in the sink it’s going to be centered for us. So it’s important to look at that first. So now we are going to slip it into the body of the sink and we are just going to feed it through the one hole. And this is different than some faucets that are going to have two threaded rods, one for the hot, one for the cold.
Both of the hot and cold are in the center and we are just going to drop it in, making sure that we’ve lined up the center, where this is going to turn on and off. And I might even adjust it just a little bit, so that that’s centered. And in this case it looks like these holes in the back are pretty much centered, so we want to keep those straight back.
I am going to throw the rubber washer and the metal washer, we are going to pass the hose through it and also the tubes that are going to connect to the hot and cold and we’ve got to kind of weave this around all three, so that it passes through that inside diameter and it’s not easy. There we go. And now we are going to make sure that we’ve got the front lined up.
Then we are going to take our threaded nut and we are going to push it up the same way and then tighten it down on that threaded post. All right. So I am tightening up the nut, making sure the handle is centered and once we get this to the top, we are going to snug it off fairly tight and then we are going to use these two screws and we are going to completely tighten it down and force it into place.
The flexible tube that goes to the handle, I put a little bit of plumber’s grease all around this O-ring and it’s going to keep it from drying up as quickly and it’s going to allow me to pop this in place without scratching it or causing a little scratch that would possibly leak. So once we have that greased up, we are going to snap this into place and then it has a little set screw that we are going to tighten down and then we are going on to the next step where we are going to attach our supply line.
Now we are going to connect the supply line to the faucet and almost all kitchen sinks are going to have half inch iron pipe coming out of the body of the faucet itself. In this case we’ve got one group coming out of the middle of the faucet. A lot of faucets are actually going to have threaded pipes coming from the left and right side of the faucet body, but in this case we have supply tubes that are copper, so we have to be very careful as we tighten this.
In the supply line itself, in most cases you are going to have half inch iron pipe that’s connected to your faucet. And then connected to the valve, the most common size is three eights compression. You could possibly have a half inch compression, or half inch iron pipe, but in most cases is going to be half inch iron pipe to the faucet, three eights compression to the valve.
A great trick is to take your old supply lines, if you are changing your faucet, bring the supply line with you to the hardware store and that way you are guaranteed that the new supply lines are going to be the right size. So we are going to take this supply line, we are going to connect it to the supply tube and we are going to be very careful that we hold this fitting here with a wrench as we tighten this nut because of the soft copper.
And those are the steps to put together a kitchen faucet with a single handle and the sprayer hooked to the body. The only thing I have to add to a faucet like this is this little weight they give you and you just connect it to the bottom of the loop and when you use your sprayer and push it back into the body of the faucet, it just helps push the hose back down. So that’s all there is to it.
Before you connect the new supply line to either your faucet or dishwasher, you’d want to bleed it first. So I connected the supply line to the valve and I am just going to let it run for a couple of seconds. And if you had any debris build up, just from working and get caught in here, you don’t want it to get caught in the aerator, in the faucet or especially for the dishwasher, all the small pieces inside the dishwasher.
So it’s always a good idea to grab a bucket, bleed it first, and especially if have galvanized pipe and you shut off the water and you’ve turned the main back on, just that activity sometimes shakes loose a lot of rust, so it’s always a good idea to bleed your valve before you connect a new supply line.
To finish off the faucet, I connected the supply lines and I opened the valves with a bucket and bled them to get any debris out and then it’s always a good idea to take off the aerator, which I did and bleed it.